CDLPre-Trip InspectionClass AAir Brakes

Modernized Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection: The Full Test-Day Order

The modernized Class A CDL pre-trip, in order: lights, in-cab air brake check, tug test, under-hood, coupling and trailer, with every PSI and spec.

September 24, 2026 · Commercial Driver Prep team
Modernized Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection: The Full Test-Day Order

The pre-trip inspection is the first skills test you take, and it’s where a lot of CDL applicants lose points. They usually know the truck. What goes wrong is not saying out loud what they’re checking. The modernized pre-trip format many states now use has made the test shorter and more structured, so it’s easier to learn if you follow the order.

This post walks through the modernized Class A pre-trip in test order, the way a CDL school teaches it. For a side-by-side of what changed from the old format, see our breakdown of the new modernized CDL pre-trip and how it’s graded.

The two phrases that carry your whole pre-trip

Nearly every item on the inspection comes down to one of two phrases. Memorize both.

PhraseStands forUse it on
CDLCracked, Damaged, Loose (+ leaking)Brackets, mounts, lenses, steering parts, springs, tanks, anything metal
ABCAbrasions, Bumps, CutsTires, hoses, air lines, wiper rubber, seals

Tip: Examiners score what they hear, not what you look at. If you check a part without saying anything, it counts as not checked. Name the part and say your phrase every time.

Step 1: Exterior lights (examiner outside)

In the modernized format the examiner checks the lights first so they know the vehicle is safe before anything else happens. Turn the key to accessory and run through the lights while the examiner signals from outside:

  1. Headlights (low beam), then high beams
  2. Left turn signal, then right turn signal
  3. Four-way flashers
  4. At the rear: tail lights, brake lights, four-ways, left and right signals

Once the examiner gives the final thumbs-up, they climb into the cab with you.

Step 2: Seat belt and safe start

Before the engine starts:

  • Seat belt: no cuts, frays or abrasions. It latches and unlatches properly. Put it on.
  • Tell the examiner you got in using three points of contact. This is a scored item, so say it out loud.
  • ABS light: key to on, and the ABS lamp should come on and then go off. If it stays on, there’s a fault.
  • Safe start: foot on the brake, parking brakes set, transmission in neutral, then start the engine.

Step 3: The in-cab air brake test

This is where most of the points and most of the failures happen. The school in our source video teaches it as G-A-L-E. For a deeper look at every number, read CDL Air Brakes Explained: Every PSI Number, Test Step and Trap.

LetterCheckWhat passes
GGovernor cut-outAbout 125 PSI (commonly taught as 120–140 PSI)
AApplied leakage≤ 4 PSI loss in 1 minute (combination), ≤ 3 PSI (single)
LLow-air warningBuzzer and light at or before 60 PSI
EEmergency (spring) brakesParking valves pop out between 20–45 PSI

How to run it:

  1. Governor: Let the air build and listen for the “sneeze” of the governor cutting out. Say what PSI it cut out at. You can raise the idle a little to speed this up, but keep it under about 1,000 RPM.
  2. Engine off, key on. Once the tanks are full, shut the engine down and turn the key back to on so the gauges and warning buzzer still work.
  3. Charge the system: push in the parking brake valves and wait until the trailer tanks stop hissing. A system that isn’t fully charged can’t be tested.
  4. Applied: press the brake pedal firmly and hold it for 60 seconds. Keep your foot completely still, because any movement bleeds air and ruins the reading.
  5. Low air: fan the brake pedal until the warning comes on for both the primary and secondary gauges. Say the PSI it came on at.
  6. Emergency: keep fanning until both parking valves pop out. Say the PSI. Don’t touch the knobs. Air pressure has to pop them, and pulling them yourself can get you disqualified.

Remember: Some trainers say “before 55 PSI” for the low-air warning. The federal-based CDL Manual standard is at or before 60 PSI. That’s the number to know for the written test and the skills test.

Step 4: In-cab inspection

Restart with a safe start and let the low-air buzzer clear so the examiner can hear you. Then work from the outside in:

  • Mirrors: not cracked, damaged or loose. Clean, clear and adjusted.
  • Windshield: clean, no cracks, no obstructions. Say “no obstructions” out loud.
  • Wiper arms and blades: arms not cracked, damaged or loose. Blades have no abrasions, bumps or cuts and make good contact with the glass. Run the washer fluid.
  • Dash indicators: left and right signals, four-ways, headlights, high-beam indicator
  • Horns: city horn and air horn
  • Heater and defroster: check defrost airflow at the windshield and heat at the floor
  • Emergency equipment (3 items):
    1. Spare electrical fuses
    2. Fire extinguisher: mounted securely, charged (check the gauge), pin in the handle
    3. Three reflective warning triangles

Step 5: The tug test and service brake check

With air back at governor cut-out:

  1. Trailer brake: tractor parking brake released, trailer parking brake set. Put it in gear and pull gently. It should hold, and the pull also proves the trailer is coupled.
  2. Tractor parking brake: tractor brake set, trailer brake released. Pull gently. It should hold.
  3. Service brake: release both, check your mirrors, roll forward at about 5 mph, and brake firmly with a loose grip on the wheel. If the truck pulls left or right, the brakes may be out of adjustment or there may be a suspension problem.

Set the brakes, put it in neutral, and tell the examiner the in-cab portion is complete.

Step 6: Exterior overview and engine compartment

Overview first: check that the truck isn’t leaning (a lean can mean a broken spring, a low tire or a shifted load) and that there are no fluid puddles underneath.

Front lights: headlight lenses are clear, turn signals are amber, cab marker lights are amber, and trailer clearance lights are the right color. None are cracked, damaged or loose.

Under the hood, in this order:

  1. Three fluids: coolant (between min and full), engine oil (dipstick in the safe range; say how you’d wipe it and re-read it), power steering (between add and full). For each one, check the reservoir, cap and hoses.
  2. Hose overview: air, fuel and oil lines. Look and listen for leaks, abrasions, bumps and cuts.
  3. Steering: no more than 10° of free play in the steering shaft, gearbox securely mounted with no shiny threads or rust trails at the bolts, linkage secured with castle nuts and cotter pins
  4. Suspension: leaf springs not missing, broken or shifted, spring hangers, U-bolts, bump stop, shock absorber (not leaking)
  5. Brakes: brake line and ABS line with no abrasions, bumps or cuts. Shoes with at least ¼ inch of lining. Drum with no cracks or illegal welds, and no contaminants such as oil, grease or dirt.
  6. Steer tire: sidewalls, 4/32” tread in every groove, a matched pair, a good bead seal, the rim with no illegal welds, all lug nuts present with no rust trails, a valve stem with its cap on, and pressure to the manufacturer’s spec checked with a gauge

Did you know? You have to say you’d check tire pressure with a tire gauge. Thumping the tire isn’t an acceptable method on the test.

Step 7: Side of tractor, coupling and trailer

  • Mirror: clean, no illegal stickers, securely mounted
  • Battery box: you usually don’t have to open it. Explain how you’d check the mounting, cracks or leaks, cable condition and corrosion.
  • DEF: cap intact. The tank is secured by its straps.
  • Fuel tank: cap and seal, safety chain, fuel lines, tank straps. No leaks.
  • Electrical line: plug seated, safety catch in place, no missing or corroded pins
  • Air lines: red is emergency, blue is service. Neither leaks. Glad hands have good rubber seals and no debris inside. Lines are supported and not dragging on the catwalk, and the catwalk is clear.
  • Frame: not cracked, damaged or loose, and no illegal welds
  • Fifth wheel: no gap between the fifth wheel and the trailer apron (a gap means a high hitch), properly greased, mounting bolts tight, release handle in the locked position, locking jaws closed around the kingpin. On a sliding fifth wheel, add the slide locks, clean rails and the slider air line.
  • Kingpin and apron: not bent, cracked or damaged
  • Landing gear: enough clearance from the tractor for turns, cross members intact, pads clear, crank handle stowed, gear fully raised
  • Trailer: DOT reflective tape covering at least 50% of the trailer’s length (FMCSA conspicuity rules), frame and floor, trailer ABS lamp, and the rear lights and markers are the right color

For the full walk-around with every component listed, bookmark our complete Class A pre-trip guide.

Common point-losers on the modernized pre-trip

MistakeFix
Forgetting to mention three points of contactSay it right after you buckle the seat belt
Testing air brakes with the engine runningGovernor cut-out → engine off → key on
Pulling the parking brake knobs during the E testLet the air pressure pop them
Moving your foot during the applied testBrace your heel on the floor and hold still for 60 seconds
Not saying “no obstructions” or “no contaminants”Build these words into your script
Guessing tire pressure”I’d check it with a tire gauge to the manufacturer’s spec”

Lock in the knowledge before test day

The skills test is hands-on, but every number in it comes from the CDL Manual, including 60 PSI, 20–45 PSI, 4/32”, and 10° of steering play. Those same numbers show up on your written General Knowledge and Air Brakes tests. If you drill them as multiple-choice questions, you’ll recall them automatically while the examiner is sitting next to you.

The CDL Test app gives you complete practice for the CDL General Knowledge test and all endorsements, with an explanation on every question that ties the answer back to the Manual. It’s part of the Commercial Driver Prep suite: 1200+ questions across 3 focused apps, covering CDL, HazMat and Air Brakes.

Start now with a free CDL practice quiz →

Frequently asked questions

What is the modernized CDL pre-trip inspection?
It's a shorter, more standardized version of the vehicle inspection skills test that many states have adopted. You still identify each component and state what you're checking it for, but the order is set: exterior lights, in-cab checks with the air brake test, a tug test, then the engine compartment, and finally the coupling and trailer. Check your state's CDL Manual and skills test scoring sheet to confirm the exact format your DMV uses.
What does 'cracked, damaged, or loose' mean on the CDL pre-trip?
It's the standard phrase examiners listen for when you inspect most metal and mounted parts. Add 'leaking' for anything that holds fluid or air, like hoses, shocks and air lines. For rubber parts such as tires, hoses and wiper blades, check for abrasions, bumps and cuts, which is easy to remember as 'ABC.'
What PSI numbers do I need to know for the CDL air brake check?
The governor should cut out at about 125 PSI (many schools teach a 120–140 PSI range). The low-air warning must come on at or before 60 PSI. The spring brakes should pop out between 20 and 45 PSI. On the applied leakage test, a combination vehicle can't lose more than 4 PSI in one minute (3 PSI for a single vehicle).
How much tread do CDL steer tires need?
Steer tires need at least 4/32 of an inch of tread in every major groove. All other tires need at least 2/32 of an inch. On the test, say that you would measure it with a tread depth gauge.
Do I have to open the battery box on the CDL pre-trip test?
Usually not. Under the modernized format you point to the battery box and explain what you would check: that the box is mounted and secure, the batteries aren't cracked, damaged, loose or leaking, the cables aren't frayed or burnt, and the terminals are tight with no corrosion. On your own truck, you should open it and actually look.

Put what you've read into practice

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